Lovage: A neglected culinary herb

Herbs and spices have undoubtedly fallen in and out of fashion over the centuries. The changing popularity of spices is perhaps easier to explain than that of herbs. After all, the former were often imported from the furthest corners of the globe, often at great expense, and hence were seen as a luxury item. Herbs, by contrast, were an ubiquitous feature of the (English) countryside, found in hedgerows, woods, and fields. Lovage (Levisticum officinale Koch.), which belongs to the Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) family, is a perennial plant that grows easily and has an umami-like taste and a celery-like flavour, thus leading to its name as the Maggi plant. Lovage also gives rise to a gentle mouth-tingling gustatory effect due to the presence of ligustilide, a volatile TRPA1 modulator. Charting the history of lovage's use in cooking, this narrative historical review will hopefully help to draw attention to a versatile and flavourful culinary herb that has largely been replaced in recipes by celery and/or parsley.